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February 8th 2005
My golden suntan is fading nicely, just entering the peeling stage despite investing in every grade of protection sun lotion, ranging from mega blackout SPF 30, and gradually working down the scale through factor 20, and finishing with an '8' towards the end of our holiday. (Well, I like to live life with that element of danger in it!!)
Eric, the Maitre'd , was waiting on the jetty with welcoming fruit punch and Mini Moke to take us to the beach house No.8 where we'd stay the first couple of nights before changing to our favourite cottage No.18. The yellow and red flags on the pole outside each bungalow were still the island system for either requesting 'room service' or 'privacy', by raising the appropriate flag. Our two bedroom/bathroom house with covered dining room and decking was just a few paces from the Atlantic beach, and surrounded by lush colourful plants. Once unpacked, we made our way to the central pavilion and bar for dinner, delighted to see all the old faces of the staff we'd met years ago. We really felt at home, ordering our first cold rum punch for a very long time. We retired to bed early, and soon forgot time, tending to rise each morning as the sun did over the sea, (6.a.m. local time), ready for a typical day ahead of swimming, snorkelling, sunbathing, enjoying super food, and taking in the wonderful peaceful beauty of the island, completely detached from the hectic outside world of T.V's , mobile phones, computers, and hoards of people. With all accommodation discreetly hidden amidst the island vegetation, Haze Richardson and his wife Lynn have created a unique resort, offering a blend of comfort and luxury, on 112 acres of outstanding natural beauty, an island jewel in the azure Caribbean sea. A team of 80 friendly staff from neighbouring islands are employed to maintain the island infrastructure and pamper the guests, whilst thoughtful touches complete the perfect picture of a romantic island hideaway, such as randomly placed hammocks, comfortable sunloungers and flasks of iced water distributed along the beaches, and not forgetting the family of Labradors willing to escort visitors around their island playground! ….And under Haze's ownership that's the way it's going to remain, a very special place where the natural beauty will be preserved, not to be spoilt by over development with the lure of extra profit or selling off of building plots unlike some of the neighbouring islands in recent times. Recently the nearby Palm Island has done just that, under new ownership, and added extra restaurants and bars to accommodate visiting yachties and cruise ships. 'Tamarind Cove' resort has been built on Canouan, complete with 250 bedrooms and casino, with talk of a large airport in the future, and so as The Grenadines opens it's door to future mass tourism, it's reassuring to know that in many years to come, the views of the island in the following photos won't have changed.
The photos above illustrate firstly the distant Union Island from PSV bluff, then the view from the top of Marni Hill, the traditional locally built schooner, 'Jambalaya' which we chartered to sail to the Tobago Cays, and the selection of sailing craft by the dockhouse, for the complementary use of the guests. Finally, the rather scruffy photo of the island map illustrates it's layout, the 22 cottages scattered along the beaches, linked by small lanes for the mini mokes to drive along whilst delivering room service, with the pavilion and restaurant placed centrally, overlooking the harbour. So, after the initial tiring first day of travel, we awoke the following morning to the red glow of the sun appearing from the sea beyond the distant reef, and so time for an early swim before breakfast on the terrace. I showered as a humming bird hovered from flower to flower nearby, with a flock of larger birds lining up in readiness for the imminent breakfast tray, their distinctive birdsong sounding very like the swinging of a squeaky old gate! Over our 10 days on PSV, the hot sun was unrelenting, though the cooling offshore winds made conditions perfect for outdoor living. Occasionally lunches were served on the beach, we'd lazily pass away afternoons resting on hammocks by the shore, swimming, observing underwater life with snorkels and flippers, ambling around the island, or happily reading a book on the terrace back at the cottage. On out third day we moved to our favourite cottage, No.18 situated on the southern headland of Cross Point, surrounded by clear turquoise waters, views across to Petit Martinique, and steps down to a long stretch of private beach. Take a look at the beautiful sunsets we witnessed most evenings, soon after 6.p.m. as the sun fell behind a distant island. Time then to shower and get down to the bar for pre-dinner drinks!
After a few days of soaking up the relaxed atmosphere, sun and rum, we decided to charter Jeff's schooner to sail North to a group of uninhabited islands called the Tobago Cays, where the snorkelling is really good. It all brought back memories of the time we last visited there, again with Jeff, on his former boat, a yellow hulled catamaran, back in 1996. He had 'tamed' a rather sinister looking barracuda back then, weaning it on portions of PSV chicken which it'd devour and then spit out the bones. Affectionally known as 'Barry The Baracuda' and now well and truly instilled in to Grenadinian folklore, the friendly fish liked to escort fellow swimmers, watching them intently with his deadly black eyes as they navigated the reef, darting from nowhere at the prospect of a meal. Dennis was very keen to feed Barry from the safety of the boat, with myself and Jeff already in the water, with camera at the ready, and just like a faithful puppy called to heel, he pounced from nowhere as Dennis threw the chicken in the water literally inches from our faces! Well the best outcome was that Jeff got a couple of great shots of Barry, though even better, we emerged from the water intact! Here are the pictures. Look at those lovely razor sharp teeth.
Alas poor Barry is no more, having been caught by fishermen, but Jeff only last week came across an 8 ft. shark whilst snorkelling with other guests, and so who knows how the shark will adapt to being tamed on the promise of lunch a la PSV. Perhaps in the future we can expect an underwater guided tour by Sammy The Shark as he poses willingly for the tourist's cameras! Back to Jeff's boat, 'Jambalaya' and it has been quite a project for him to create. It is a 72 ft. wooden boat whose frame is literally carved from the wild trees of Grenada, and constructed by master shipwrights on neighbouring Carriacou. Not just a vessel of visual beauty, on his first effort he managed 2nd place in the Antigua race week recently, and with generous accommodation, she is the ideal way to cruise the string of islands forming The Grenadines, between St. Vincent and Grenada. (Website www.windwardschooner.com ) With 'Jambalaya' waiting on the jetty on Sunday morning, we boarded with Eric and his girlfriend Levonne whom we'd invited to join us for the day, to join Jeff and Tim for the easy sail past Palm, Union and Mayreau, up to The Cays. There's something very peaceful to be sailing over deep blue sea, beneath clear skies, with only the sound of the breeze and water against the hull.
That's 'Star Clipper' that we passed en-route as it sailed down from Barbados.
And there's Dennis on deck with Captain Jeff at the helm.
Many a boat anchors off the Tobago Cays, attracted by the safe protected bays, wild untouched islands and beaches, and perfect snorkelling by the outer reefs. We observed the multi coloured fish calmly scavenging amongst the coral, carried along by the warm current, before returning to 'Jambalaya' for lunch. No barracuda sightings this time! The wind had completely changed on sailing back and as the week progressed, the fresh sea breezes eased as the intense heat of the Caribbean dry high season commenced. We were out on the sea again when Ken from the dock took us by speedboat to the tiny island of Petit St. Richardson (Mopion) for a spot of snorkelling in the warm crystal clear waters, and he showed great patience in introducing me to some hobie cat sailing off PSV.
Yes, the weather really was that perfect for us all the time, and yes, the beaches are that empty. With the added luxury of really tasty healthy food, with the choice of eating in your private cottage, on the beach or in the restaurant, the attentive service of friendly staff, we were really happy to be living the idyllic island dream. One thing's for sure, we hope to return there a lot sooner than we have done in the past! So thanks, Haze. Lynn and your wonderful team for creating PSV resort and sharing your island home with your guests and making everyone feel so welcome.(Website www.psvresort.com) We have great admiration too for how you bounced back better than ever after the Hurricane Ivan last September, given just 2 months to repair and rebuild and clean up before the opening season.
Oh well, back to reality! The afternoon flight from Barbados landed in London early the following morning and so we were back home by 9.a.m. and decided to get all the chores done before catching up on missed sleep, so we unpacked, unlocked everywhere, and did several loads of washing and ironing, before retiring to bed at 7 p.m. for 14 hours sleep! Completely refreshed the following morning, we went out to stock the fridge up, but a spot of retail therapy saw Dennis acquiring another 6 antiques on his travels and we have since found space for two more pairs of chairs and a really nice small settee looking just right in the entrance hall. Well I thought I'd managed for the first time ever to write a newsletter without the mention of cars, but, no, it is not to be! Within the backlog of mail on return from the Caribbean was a letter detailing Aston Martin's imminent launch of the new V8 Vantage, and Dennis has decided the DB9 is in need of a baby brother, and so we look forward to the new arrival sometime this coming Summer. (I'll resist the catalogue of photos for now!) Other news is quite bland in comparison to the trip to PSV; I'm sure no one is interested in reading about me climbing up the ladders and cleaning the windows yesterday, or doing some weeding in the garden! As for Christmas, we had considered a stay at 'Sharrow Bay' hotel up in The Lake District, but with a minimum 3 night booking required, instead we called in a few days before over the weekend, when we were lucky to have glorious Winter weather, with clear bright crisp mornings, the low sun shining on the snow capped mountains of Helvelyn.
As for Christmas itself, we stayed at home enjoying the comfort of the house, with New Year passing quietly, and looking forward to 2005 and the travelling that we have promised ourselves to do. We saw all the family and Mum has been down here to stay with us for a few days.We introduced her to some of our favourite eating places here, together with a shopping trip down to London. Next holiday on the books is a skiing trip to Courchevel in the French Alps, but also this year we really look forward to exploring Italy for the first time and so thoughts are turning towards Tuscany and Umbria. Already in to February and we feel the English Winter is almost over, particularly with the daffodils already growing in the garden….and yes I have cut the lawns a couple of times already this year….and yes, the moles are still definitely here!! Best wishes to everyone, Colin & Dennis. |
